A girls’ weekend in St. Augustine

I had a blast in St. Augustine, Florida last weekend! It was a girls’ weekend with two of my favorite people, Carrie and Debbie.

This church is one of several that Henry Flagler built.

This church is one of several that Henry Flagler built.

St. Augustine is a fabulous town and oozing with history. It was founded by Pedro Menendez de Aviles in 1565 making it the oldest permanent European settlement in North America.  (FYI, St. Augustine was founded 42 years before the English colony at Jamestown, Virginia and 55 years before the pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, Massachusetts.) Course, the Indians were here first and in St. Augustine, it was the Timucuans.

In 1586, Sir Francis Drake (England) burned the town. In 1668, a pirate, Captain John Davis plundered the town. St. Augustine also survived attacks, first in 1702, by Governor James Moore of South Carolina, and in 1740 by General James Oglethorpe of Georgia. 

The Lightner Museum, formerly The Hotel Alcazar had an indoor swimming pool, Turkish baths, bowling alley, etc. Today, there is a cafe located in the swimming pool. This is also one of a handful of locations that are popular for weddings.

The Lightner Museum, formerly The Hotel Alcazar had an indoor swimming pool, Turkish baths, bowling alley, etc. Today, there is a cafe located in the swimming pool. This is also one of a handful of locations that are popular for weddings.

In 1821, a yellow fever epidemic brought much death to the city and later, the Seminole War of 1836 (those darn Indians) wreaked havoc on the economy.

After the Civil War, Henry Flagler, a rich oil tycoon (Standard Oil) came to the middle of the swamp and built a couple of hotels, the Alcazar and his masterpiece,  the Ponce de Leon.  Rich northerners rode Flagler’s train to St. Augustine for long lavish winter vacations in the temperate climate. Flagler also built a hospital, town hall and several churches and remains much beloved of the local citizenry.

Some rich families built winter homes or became permanet residents. The building that houses St. Augustine’s Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum was originally built as a winter home for millionaire William Warden in 1887. Warden had either 13 or 14 daughters (depending on which tour guide you believe) and had a handful of servants, too, so he needed a huge grandiose house.  “Castle Warden” later served as a fashionable hotel owned by Norton Baskin and his wife, Pulitzer prize-winning novelist, Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, author of The Yearling, Cross Creek and South Moon Under. Robert Ripley was a frequent visitor to the hotel and had commented on numerous occasions that Castle Warden would be an ideal location to showcase his collection of unbelievable curiosities and sometime in 1950 the building was sold to him and has been since then, the original permanent location of Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum.

Aviles Street is the oldest street in North America.

Aviles Street is the oldest street in North America.

So, here is our story. Debbie and I went to Carrie’s Thursday evening, and ate a wonderful dinner at Bella’s in Savannah with Carrie and her husband, Steve. We girls got up early Friday morning, headed south on Interstate 95 and arrived in St. Augustine three hours later. After checking into our hotel, we bought tour passes for Old Town Trolley tours (the green and orange trolleys).  Our passes would include a tour of St. Augustine, free admission to a museum and free rides all weekend to all the tour stops.

St. Augustine was surrounded by a wall. This was the gate to the city.

St. Augustine was surrounded by a wall. This was the gate to the city.

After a tour of the city, we jumped off the trolley and ate a leisurely outdoor lunch, followed by shopping and sightseeing in Old Town. After a trolley ride back to our hotel, and a short rest, we drove across the Mantanzas Bay to Zhanras on Anastasia Island where we had a splendid dinner of tapas. Our waiter wasn’t bad on the eyes, either.

On Saturday morning, we went to a little French bistro on Cathedral Street in Old Town and had a wonderful breakfast with fresh squeezed orange juice and omelets fromage.

This is the tallest free standing cross in North America. It overlooks the bay at the Mission de Nombre de Dios.

This is the tallest free standing cross in North America. It overlooks the bay at the Mission de Nombre de Dios.

And, then the outlet malls! There are two! Premium Outlets and Prime Outlets. We shopped till we dropped. I got a pair of jeans, new meat thermometer, cutting boards, bras and underwear – all within budget. Carrie’s biggest purchase was her Le Creuset round roaster (expensive) and Debbie bought a new purse (expensive).

Back to the hotel to drop Debbie off who now had blisters on her feet and then, Care and I went to San Sebastian Winery on the trolley. San Sebastian makes some very nice wines with muscadine grapes. I am not a big sweet wine drinker, preferring cabernet sauvignon and other less sweet fare, but I do think San Sebastian’s sweet wines are the best. It was difficult toting almost two cases back to the hotel on the trolley, but we managed without spilling (or drinking) a drop.

Our waiter, Pablo, snapped this photo.

Our waiter, Pablo, snapped this photo.

Dinner on Saturday was at a nice restaurant about a block from out hotel – We sat outside under a gazebo at the Raintree.  I had panko crusted Chilean Sea Bass. Yum! Carrie had a bouillabaisse and Debbie had the lobster tail.

There are so many things we didn’t do this trip, like tour the Fountain of Youth and Flagler College and Lightner Museum and Ripley’s and Villa Zorayda and the Old Jail or take the ghost tour, yada, yada.

My absolute favorite thing, though, was when we were walking the grounds at the Mission de Nombre de Dios. There were not many people there and the ones who were spoke in whispers – it seemed like such a wonderful place to reflect. Beautiful voices of a woman’s choir wafted through the air from the most beautiful little chapel located near the center of the grounds. It seemed irreverent to take a photo of the chapel right then, so  I planned on going back later, but never did.

We left St. Augustine early Sunday morning and I got home late Sunday afternoon.

Believe it or not!

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Hi ho the derry-o, a fishing we will go

The sun was out when we left Folly Landing, but it was cold and mostly cloudy all day.

The sun was out when we left Folly Landing, but it was cold and mostly cloudy all day.

Finally, after weeks of snafus that kept us from getting out on the water, we went fishing and crabbing and oyster harvesting on Saturday.

It was dark and quite chilly when we left the house early Saturday morning. The boat was more crowded with stuff than usual because we took an extra cooler for our sandwiches and beer so that the BIG cooler could bring home our haul of fish, crabs, and oysters! And, of course, we were also carrying the crab pot and our muck boots this time, too.

It's good to see that the dolphin are still here. Soon, they will be gone for the winter.

It's good to see that the dolphin are still here. Soon, they will be gone for the winter.

We arrived at the landing at high tide. And, what a high tide it was, too! I’ve never seen the water that high and I had to put on my boots just to get to the dock!

We had talked to another fisherman when we were buying live bait shrimp a few minutes earlier at Crosby’s and he was launching his boat at the same time we were. He had said he tore up the red drum last week near the abandoned clam farm and was going back to the same spot to try his luck there again.

My birthday present loaded with chicken necks and ready to go!

My birthday present loaded with chicken necks and ready to go!

Brian and I headed to our favorite fishing spot, probably a couple of miles away by water. The air was cold and I wished I had my ear muffs and gloves. On the way, we found a place we thought would be good for crabbing. The water there was about 20 feet deep, so Brian rigged the trap with enough rope that the pot could sit on the bottom. We put a couple of chicken necks in the food trap and dropped the cage overboard. The plan would be to come back to this spot when we were done fishing for the day and pull up a pot full of crabs.  

This is our crab pot marker. We'll come back in a few hours to check out catch!

This is our crab pot marker. We'll come back in a few hours to check out catch!

We began fishing in earnest. And, we were catching quite a few fish. I caught my first one before Brian had even tossed his line in the water for the first time! It was a small croaker (named thus because it makes a croaking sound just like a frog). Not big enough to keep. And that’s how the morning went. We caught lots of fish, black bass, whiting, croakers, spotted bass, but few big enough to keep. But, it was still fun. We decided to try our luck up near a place called the Long Dock, near Bowen’s Restaurant. 

Most oyster beds are under water at high tide.

Most oyster beds are under water at high tide.

The tide was on its way out and in about another two hours, the oyster beds would be exposed and I would just hop out of the boat and collect a bushel or two.

On our way to the new spot, we passed our crab pot and decided to pull it up to see if there were any crabs in it yet. No crabs yet, but Brian adjusted the rope to about 16 feet, since the water level was now that much lower there. (See, with crabbing, you worry that if your line is too long, the excess might float enough that a passing boat’s propeller might cut it and your pot would be lost forever on the bottom of the sea.)

Oh, yeah. I'm up to my knees in muck!

Oh, yeah. I'm up to my knees in muck!

When we got to Long Dock, we hung a left into a smaller channel and caught a bunch of whiting there. Some were big enough to keep. And, after a little lunch, we noticed quite a few exposed oyster beds around us. Yep, it was almost two o’clock and low tide.  And, we were at one of the state oyster beds, a place where we are allowed to harvest oysters! We beached the boat against an oyster bed and I donned my boot and rubber gloves and grabbed a hammer. I had seen a video on how it is done and I was prepared. I got out of the boat and pulled a cluster of oysters out of the mud. As I began to hammer away at some of the smaller oysters (these will fall back into the mud and continue growing, leaving just the bigger ones to keep) I began to sink, and sink, and sink further into the mud. Uh oh. I finally stopped sinking right at the top of my boots. And, so difficult to pull my feet out of that mud as it kept sucking my boots down under. What a muddy muddy business this is! And, if you fall you can really get yourself cut up on the oysters, too. And, so, I decided that oystering is not for me and that I will gladly pay for someone else to pick mine for me.

Now, what I haven’t mentioned so far is that one day last week, Sam Dog had a hold of one of my muck boots (I keep them near our back door to slip on for some of my outdoor projects) and he must have torn a little hole in the bottom of it because my right foot got wet and muddy.

So, it was the end of the fishing excursion and we were on our way back to our crab pot to pull it out of the water. On our way there, we passed a boat, carrying two bushels of oysters (the maximum for a recreational fisherman) on its way back to the landing. He was going to have some mighty fine eating tonight.

I got the camera out to snap a picture of our crab pot just as Brian pulled it out of the water. Up it came and when it broke the surface, we were surely disappointed as there was not even one crab in it!

You can crab year round in South Carolina, but I’m sure there are seasons where crabbing is better than at other times. I’m guessing that most of the crabs have migrated back to the ocean for winter. I will now probably have to wait for spring to try again.

But, that’s okay. I have lots and lots of trips to make to the beach and a lifetime of crabbing ahead of me.

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What I did last weekend

I have been wanting to go crabbing ever since I got my new crab pot about a month ago. But, it just hasn’t been in the cards. First, Brian got sick with a bad cold (maybe it was H1N1), then I got sick with it, then the next weekend, it rained. Looks like we will finally be able to go this weekend! Can’t wait for Saturday!

Brian worked on the boat last weekend. A knowledgeable friend offered to help out and they worked on it for eight hours on Saturday and, then Brian finished up and cleaned her up on Sunday. They rewired just about everything, installed a new bilge pump and new aerator for the live well.

I cleaned house, did laundry, took pictures of mushrooms and beautiful wild chickens in the yard. Here’s a pictorial:

Most of the time, Grace hates Sam, but he snuck up on the bench and took a nap beside her on Saturday!

Most of the time, Grace hates Sam, but he snuck up on the bench and took a nap beside her on Saturday!

 

I decided not to publish the picture of my granny panties! I love hanging our clothes out to dry!

I decided not to publish the picture of my granny panties! I love hanging our clothes out to dry!

 

Weather conditions are ripe for mushrooms.

Weather conditions are ripe for mushrooms.

 

I love to eat mushrooms.

I love to eat mushrooms.

 

I don't know how to pick them in the wild, although that would be a skill I could be very interested in learning.

I don't know how to pick them in the wild, although that would be a skill I could be very interested in learning.

 

Yes, I know I am boring you with mushroom pictures!

Yes, I know I am boring you with mushroom pictures!

 

But, isn't it amazing how different they all are!

But, isn't it amazing how different they all are!

 

The wild chickens do not let you get too close to them. Someday I will own a better camera so you can see just how beautiful these birds are. This rooster shot is the best of the bunch that I took. Can you see the rust, orange, red, green, blue colorings?

The wild chickens do not let you get too close to them. Someday I will own a better camera so you can see just how beautiful these birds are. This rooster shot is the best of the bunch that I took. Can you see the rust, orange, red, green, blue colorings?

 

Pork Chops Nicoise. Chicken stock, portobella mushrooms, pine nuts, roasted red pepper, kalamata olives make this dish yummy!

Pork Chops Nicoise. Chicken stock, portobella mushrooms, pine nuts, roasted red pepper, kalamata olives make this dish yummy!

 

So, how was your weekend?

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